How to lay on da Board
What you want to do when you lay on a surf board is to have the board remain in the same relation to the water as it was without your weight on it, just a bit lower in the water.
Find the "Sweet Spot"
A good tip is to find this balance point or sweet spot on your board. Lay on your board and take notice of where your chin sits. This spot is going to be your reference point of where to be located on your board, so the board will react to your weight the same way every time.
If the board's nose digs into the water it is called poking tako and you must move your body back by sliding back an inch from your original sweet spot and remember this spot when taking off on your next wave.
Nose in the Air
Too much weight in the back and the board will cause your nose to stick up too much. This is a common mistake for beginners. You cannot catch a wave if your nose is in the air. Move up an inch at a time till the board lies flat on the water. This will make it easier for you to paddle faster and catch more waves.
Paddling for the wave
It is best to paddle hand over hand, moving left then right. This will allow you to keep up a consistent speed in the water making is easier and less exhausting for you to paddle to the break. While paddling, remember to keep your body rigid. This means keeping your head up and using your core muscles to stoke rather than just your arms. Also remember to keep both legs on the board and not dragging on the side.
Standing On The Board
Lie on your chest, your head up, looking forward. Put your hands on the board parallel to your chest and grab the rail of the board. Push your upper body up and at the same time sweep your feet under you. Make sure your feet are laying right down the stringer or the center of the board. This move keeps your weight centered and helps you balance longer. When you first pop up, remember to keep your okole or rear end low. Continue to look forward as you begin to stand erect and get your balance. Use your arms by pointing forward or outward throwing some "shakas" for balance as well.
Keep practicing and don't give up.
- Never have your board between yourself and the coming waves!
- To avoid collision with others, keep a safe distance.
- Beginners should always wear a leash on their surfboard.
- Wet suits act as a rash guard, protecting your skin from rubbing against the board.
- When you fall off your board, always protect your head. Also try to stay under water for a moment longer than necessary. This allows your board to land on the surface of the water and not on you.
- When you come up, try to be facing the oncoming waves and look for your board's location immediately.
The first standing surfer that is closest to the peak of the break has the right of way on that wave. Anyone paddling for that wave should stop. The surfer riding the wave has the right of way and the surfer paddling out to the break must yield. This means getting out of the way whenever possible, even if it is into the breaking wave or behind the rider. If you are paddling for a wave and someone is paddling out toward you, make eye contact with that person and indicate your intentional direction in reference to them. Show respect for da Bruddas! Every one will have fun.